Leentje van Hengel is a textile designer and natural dye and print specialist whose work bridges traditional craft, material research and contemporary textile design. She studied Printed Textile Design at the University for the Creative Arts in the United Kingdom, where she developed a strong foundation in pattern, color and textile printing techniques. Interestingly, textiles were not her first career ambition: initially, she wanted to become a veterinarian. After twice not being selected through the Dutch lottery system for veterinary studies, she reconsidered her path and chose to pursue textiles, enrolling in a respected crafts-oriented art school in England. A decision that would define her professional life.
Leentje often reflects on her early years growing up in Iran as an important influence on her sensitivity to textiles and color. Being surrounded by richly patterned carpets, natural materials and an everyday presence of handcrafted objects may have quietly shaped her visual language and tactile awareness long before she consciously chose textiles as a profession.
Following her studies, she built an international career as a freelance textile designer, collaborating with several well-known and influential companies, including Liberty of London, Boussac, Canovas, De Ploeg, Capsicum and Texunion. Through these collaborations, she gained deep experience working within industrial and commercial contexts while maintaining a strong personal interest in craftsmanship and material integrity.
Her most personal and long-running project is Tinctoria, which she often refers to as her favorite work. For 28 years, Tinctoria functioned as both a studio and shop in Amsterdam, serving as a space for experimentation, production, education and public engagement. From this atelier, Leentje developed her own collections and carried out commissioned work, all produced exclusively with natural dyes. Tinctoria became known not only for its textiles but also as a place of knowledge-sharing, where historical dyeing techniques were translated into contemporary practice.
Leentje’s research into natural dyes began with a fascination for the complexity and depth of color achievable from plants, roots, bark and insects. A pivotal moment came when she discovered the possibility of working with dye extracts, which allowed for more efficient, controllable and scalable processes compared to traditional dye baths. This realization opened new directions in her work, combining artisanal methods with practical innovation.
Her commitment to natural dyes was also driven by environmental and health concerns. When her children were young and began spending time in her studio, she became acutely aware of the toxic substances commonly used in conventional textile production. This reinforced her decision to work exclusively with non-toxic, biodegradable materials and to question the broader ecological impact of the textile industry.
After closing her Amsterdam studio, Leentje entered a new phase. As she reflects: “After 34 years of Tinctoria, it is time for new things.” Currently, her focus is shifting more toward research, particularly exploring alternatives to aluminum-based mordants, which are widely used in natural dyeing but raise environmental concerns. This ongoing inquiry reflects her enduring curiosity and commitment to refining sustainable textile practices.
More about her work can be found at: www.tinctoria.nl